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By Ashley
Kahn, Special to MSN Music
There's always been a lot more than jazz at the New Orleans Jazz &
Heritage Festival.
Take a gander at what's in store when the world-renowned celebration
kicks off its 37th year on April 28: Bruce Springsteen, and hand-clapping
gospel choirs. Dave Matthews, and house-rocking
R&B groups. Juvenile, and street-marching Mardi
Gras Indians. Fats Domino and Keith Urban and Paul Simon and Lionel Richie and Bob Dylan.
Which is to say there's also a lot more heritage than jazz at the
festival -- no complaint because "heritage" includes the best blues,
gospel, Cajun and street-parade music the region has to offer, in addition
to the usual wide array of rock, soul and, yes, jazz styles. Place all
that music outdoors -- 375 bands total on 10 stages -- amid warm
Southern breezes and generous servings of Louisiana cuisine (a lot of rice
and spice), and it adds up to one thing.
New Orleans' jazz festival is, quite simply, America's best
party -- certainly its most musically diverse. It's been like that
since the first festival was held in 1970 and has grown in popularity from
a few hundred who attended that year to an international draw that
temporarily increased New Orleans' population by 400,000 in 2005.
But this year, in the wake of Hurricane Katrina, things will be
markedly different. The circle of New Orleans musicians has been broken
and scattered, while the essential resources for an event of this
magnitude -- water, power, funding -- were uncertainties until
only a few months ago. To some, it might seem that other projects in the
region might take precedence, even if Jazz Fest helped New Orleans net
close to a quarter of a billion dollars last year.
But to those raised in this city with its own set of cultural
priorities, Jazz Fest (as it's called locally) is more than economic
impact; it's part of the rhythm of life itself. "There's just a certain
energy in the air when it's Jazz Fest," says internationally celebrated
trumpeter Nicholas Payton. "It's like Mardi Gras,
but more like Christmas -- like a big family reunion of people from
all over the world, musicians and nonmusicians. You start gearing up for
it, and you know it's that time of the year."
To understand how Jazz Fest came to be the seasonal ritual it is today,
it's helpful to take a brief look at the history of the festival
phenomenon.
In 1953, George Wein, a Boston jazz club owner,
developed the novel idea of moving jazz from the smoky confines of
nightclubs to an al fresco, summertime setting. Artful negotiations
secured a hallowed tennis club in nearby Newport, R.I., plus an A-list of
jazz talent including Billie Holiday, Dizzy Gillespie, the Modern Jazz Quartet, Ella Fitzgerald and others. One long
July weekend later, national headlines proclaimed the birth of a new kind
of event, as publications such as the Saturday Review wrote that "jazz
goes well, as it should, with sea, air, trees, history, and the haut monde
..."
The Newport Jazz Festival engendered a monde of its own. By the early
'60s, similar festivals had sprung up in various American cities and in
Europe, while Newport added a similar festival focusing on folk music. In
the late '60s, groundbreaking outdoor festivals in Monterey, Calif., and
Woodstock, N.Y., translated the idea for the rock generation. Newport
itself began to expand its programming to include rock, funk and other
styles that were jazz- and blues-connected.
In 1969, the same year as Woodstock, Wein was introduced to Quint Davis
and Allison Miner -- a pair of idealistic teenagers in New Orleans,
who were tied into the city's vast and varied musical scene. Together,
they would become the production engine behind Jazz Fest. Davis credits
Wein for the festival model that still holds sway today.
"The current New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival was George's
concept and vision ... he insisted on a traditional-music, multi-area
ethnic event, like [folk music legend] Pete Seeger had initiated at the
Newport Folk Festival," Davis says.
That first Jazz Fest was held in the city's historic Congo Square (now
Armstrong Park) abutting the French Quarter, where the rhythms of slave
dances could be heard on Sundays more than a century before. Davis
recalls:
"At that first festival, [gospel singer] Mahalia Jackson had done a night
concert, and she came out to the fair at Congo Square one afternoon just
to check it out. And she got fired up and spontaneously started singing
'Just a Closer Walk with Thee' with [trumpeter] Percy Humphrey and the Eureka Brass Band.
"To me that was the eternal spark of what the whole festival was
forever going to be about." From that point, the festival developed so
rapidly that Davis and company had to find a new home with the necessary
acreage. They found it in the inner oval of a local racetrack. In 1972,
Jazz Fest moved to New Orleans' Fair Grounds and expanded its food,
workshop and craft programs. And those magical, musical moments became a
regular thing.
Howlin' Wolf, Dave Brubeck, Rhasaan Roland Kirk and B.B. King all performed in '73. That
same year Stevie Wonder sat in with local funk stars The Meters. Wonder
returned in '77 to sing with Ella Fitzgerald. By its 10th anniversary,
Jazz Fest had already reached its current size, duration and
reputation.

In the years since, Jazz Fest has hosted an expanding variety of
headliners: Carlos Santana, James Brown, Stevie Ray Vaughan, Al Green, Bonnie Raitt, L.L. Cool J -- as well as local
sons Wynton Marsalis, Harry Connick Jr. and the Neville Brothers. Meanwhile, the
festival drew an annual flood of national and international guests. A
substantial number were returning music lovers, hopelessly hooked on
the Mardi Gras Indians, the gospel tent and the tongue-singeing food.
Today, when other well-known, under-the-sky celebrations, such as
Bonnaroo and Ozzfest, tightly focus on a jam-band or heavy-metal audience,
Jazz Fest draws a generously wide demographic. And once the sounds have
ended for the day at the Fair Grounds, the city itself takes over: It can
seem like every New Orleans nightclub and bar -- even bowling
alleys -- will have a live band performing.
"Places that don't have music usually will have music during Jazz
Fest," adds Payton. "You have all the regular spots like Tipitina's, Snug
Harbor, Donna's Bar & Grille, the Funky Butt. And you have all these
neighborhood places and they all have music and every one of them is
packed."
Sleep becomes an option after a day filled with must-see shows at the
Fair Grounds is followed by nights of the same around the city. The
primary challenge becomes deciding what not to hear. "Should I see
piano master Allen Toussaint or catch soulful
bluesman Walter 'Wolfman' Washington? The
hard-driving rhythm-and-blues of Ike Turner or the reunion of the
original Dirty Dozen Brass Band. Or Elvis Costello?" (Take my word for it,
it's tough: These acts all performed within two hours of each other one
Saturday last year.)
"That's what's special about it," adds Payton. "At other festivals,
when the festival is over, it's over. In New Orleans when the festival is
over, it's just beginning."
Lest this description seem like too much hagiography, I should add that
there's always been room for improvement and that Jazz Fest continues to
challenge itself year after year. There's been the ever-contentious issue
of how many festival slots should be reserved for local artists and how
Jazz Fest profits should be distributed (Jazz Fest is produced by Davis
and Wein, who are hired by a foundation with a rotating membership). In
2004, rain kept scores of people away, and an imprudent aversion to saving
funds against potential losses brought Jazz Fest its first profitless
year.
It was a wake-up call that came just in time. Changes had already been
made when the hurricanes of last August hit. Davis and Wein continue to
produce the festival in a fashion that can help it survive -- and
help heal the city as well.
One doesn't need to mention Katrina when in New Orleans. It's already a
primary part of almost every conversation in the city; songs about Katrina
have been written, recorded and will be heard loudly at Jazz Fest. Fair
Grounds attire this year will certainly include T-shirts currently on sale
in the French Quarter, like the one reading "Katrina and Rita: Those
Crack-head Bitches!"
With more filtered vocabulary, Davis speaks of his hopes for a full
recovery, calling Jazz Fest 2006 "the most important Jazz Fest in history
... a homecoming party for thousands of New Orleans musicians, festival
chefs and craftspeople, and we want the world to join us in welcoming them
back as we present the celebration of a lifetime.
"Anybody who comes to this year's festival will bear witness to the
healing power of music."
Ashley Kahn is an American music historian, journalist and producer.
He has toured as road manager with artists such as Henry Threadgill,
Cassandra Wilson, Greg Osby, Ladysmith Black Mambazo, Hugh Masekela, Lucky
Dube, Paul Simon, Peter Gabriel and Britney Spears. Kahn has also written
books about two essential jazz albums: Miles Davis' "Kind of Blue" and
John Coltrane's "A Love Supreme." His writing has appeared in the New York
Times, Downbeat, Jazz Times, Rolling Stone, Mojo, New Statesman and GQ;
he's also a regular commentator on NPR's Morning Edition.
Don't forget to join MSN for the live webcast on Sunday, May
7, from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m. ET. Also bookmark http://video.msn.com/jazzfest to come back
and enjoy on-demand video from Jazz Fest. Get an alert | E-mail a friend |
 "At other festivals, when the festival
is over, it's over. In New Orleans when the festival is
over, it's just beginning." -- Nicolas
Payton | |
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