Posted April 28, 2006
By Sean Nelson, MSN Music Editor

"Picture a tiny lobster," Pierre tells me when I ask him just exactly what a crawfish is. I picture one. Then I take a bite of Pierre's signature dish, the Crawfish Monica, which includes a heaping portion of tiny lobster meat, heavily seasoned in a rich creole cream sauce (Pierre isn't about to reveal what goes into it, but whatever it is, it's artery-cloggin' good) and corkscrew pasta for good measure. Then I almost pass out because it's so delicious. It's 9 a.m. The countdown to Jazz Fest is ticking and it seems as though the entire city is heating up in anticipation.

Here on the fairgrounds, the five main stages are built and wired. Light tests and sound checks flash and pop in the background as the innumerable food booths (more crawfish than you could ever imagine, along with beignets, shortcakes, po'boys, muffaletta, jambalaya, gumbo, rose mint tea and other delights) and craft tables (beads, handmade accordions, paintings, masks, etc.) get in gear for the forthcoming onslaught of humanity. Crowds are expected to exceed 15,000 each day of this first weekend, despite forecasts of rain and wind. No one's about to let weather stand in the way of Jazz Fest this year.

Meanwhile, back in the city, Jazz Fest preparations are taking on a more musical color. Wednesday night at the legendary Tipitina's (I can't help noticing that the modifier "legendary" applies to most of the establishments our party keeps visiting; I'll try to use it sparingly from now on, but I make no promises), Putomayo World Music has assembled a night of brass band music, including the New Orleans debut of Gangbé Brass Band, a West African brass and drum collective that embodies the exchange of musical influences between the United States and Africa. Their set, which follows a performance by Treme Brass Band (featuring none other than local hero Kermit Ruffins) is impossibly lively, polyrhythmic and melodic.

Watch Gangbé playing "Sikira" now
Learn about Tipitina's Foundation and more

Perhaps the best part of live music in New Orleans: Everybody dances. To wit: Thursday night at Mid-City Lanes Rock 'N' Bowl, a bowling alley that features some of the city's finest zydeco music, the dance floor was full by 9 p.m. and didn't let up all night; many of the revelers were there in anticipation of Jazz Fest -- some were musicians, some journalists and some civilians, but everyone seemed to be getting limber for the weekend to come.

The highlight of the build-up came courtesy of Music Rising, an organization that provides assistance to musicians beset by the aftermath of Katrina [go here for more on Music Rising]. Their afternoon show at the legendary (sorry, but the shoe fits) Preservation Hall featured a guest appearance by U2's The Edge, who stepped up for a foot stomping arrangement of his band's hit "Vertigo," radically retooled by the indefatigable Preservation Hall Jazz Band, and sung with fiery vigor by Clint Maedgen (of local band Liquid Drone). The performance was emblematic of the grand coming together that Jazz Fest represents. But more to the point, the music was slamming. If this rendition doesn't wind up all over the Internet -- we'll be hosting a live video clip very soon -- I'll eat a boot. Or at least a Crawfish Monica.

Speaking of which, it's almost time for the first band to begin. Check back tomorrow for a full report.